Wednesday, 22 March 2017

CW II -LAB 7 Save the pixels





CW II -LAB 7 Save the pixels




Shoot at ISO 400


                                            Overexposed
                                     according to meter                         Underexposed

I find the overexposed and metering give the best exposures because there isn't much detail being lost in both compared to the underexposed.




Shoot at ISO 1600






 










      Less Noise




Worse Noise







Shoot with JPG AND RAW


  JPG Shot


Screen caps
Raw Caps




The difference between both is one looks more correctly exposed once you switch to JPG where as Raw is more natural and more dull looking which would leave more room for editing.

Thursday, 9 March 2017

Assignment 2 -CW II Painting

Camera Works 2


Assignment 2 - Photograph your Room at Night/Light Painting


So for this part of my room, I photographed a mask. while painting with my iPhone light of both sides.

With an ISO 100 "30 sec and F-stop 9.0






Painting my room with flash movements in three or more sections.
My rooms kind of small so I could only produce so much.
 
ISO 100  30"sec  F-stop 10







Constant Light writing and drawing.

ISO 100 25" SEC F-stop 10

This part was fun. I literally spent 30 minutes trying it out to get it perfect.














Wednesday, 8 March 2017

CW II Lab 6: Histogram




Lab 6 : Histogram



High - key scene (white on white)










Low -key scene( White on black)
                 





Variety of tones

      




a.     According to the histogram, where do most of the pixels in your high key image fall (left or right on the histogram)
        
The Pixels  In the High-key scene fall to the right of the histogram.

b.     Are there any pixels in the high key image that would not print with detail?

Yes. You start losing information where the Whites are and have a lot of noise.

c.     According to the histogram, where do most of the pixels in your low-key image fall (left or right on the histogram)

The pixels in the low - key scene fall to the left of the histogram.

d.     Are there any pixels in the Low-key image that would not print with detail?
Yes. You would start losing detail where the blacks are and if you were to increase The exposure in Lightroom you would get a lot of moire or little blue and red specs.

e.     According to the histogram, where do most of the pixels in your varied tones image fall (left or right on the histogram)
      
Mostly going towards the left.

f.      Are there any pixels in the varied tones image that would not print with detail?
       
Yes. you would lose a bit of detail on both sides.

g.     Considering the information on the histogram, do you feel your camera is properly exposing the high key and low-key scenes? Explain your answer
    
         Yes. There is a sense of darks and lights and variety.


h.     Which histogram shows the most dynamic range?

The variety tones show more of a dynamic range.

Wednesday, 22 February 2017

CW II LAB 5 - Noise Reduction




Lab 5: Noise Reduction

ISO 100/Tv 0.3sec / F8.0 - Low Reduction




ISO 100/Tv 0.3/ F8.0- Standard Reduction




ISO 100/Tv 0.3 sec/ F8.0- Strong Reduction




My first set of images were at a setting of ISO 100/Tv 0.3/ F8.0

 I didn't really have to do much adjusting to my settings  because I kept on viewing my meter.

You can see with the first two images that there is  a lot of noise reduction when looking at the writings, but in the last image there is a bit more detail. I would bump up my ISO if I want to see more detail and lighter.


ISO 800-Tv 1/6-F14 - Low Reduction



ISO 800-Tv 1/6-F14- Standard Reduction

ISO 800-Tv 1/6-F14 -Strong Reduction


When I changed my ISO to 800 I started to see a lot more details in each image when adjusting the reductions especially when its at its strongest. The words are more apparent and the images look sharp but not as sharp as the first set of images, though that can be adjusted. I would use a standard ISO of 800 for indoor shooting.



ISO 3200-Tv1/8-F29-Low Reduction





ISO 3200-Tv1/8-F29-Standard Reduction



ISO 3200-Tv1/8-F29- Strong Reduction


I kept the same settings for each photo sets like my previous images.

It is more detailed In the last set of images, but they've become super soft looking.My least favourite. but it did decrease the noise. It gives a dodged and burn look.

Wednesday, 15 February 2017






LAB 4: Creative White Balance


1. Shooting with AWB , WB Preset, WB Custom

AWB 



WB Preset:Tungsten



Custom WB 







2.Two different colours of light - AWB, Shade preset, Fluorescent preset (In order with pictures)


                 AWB                                                                                                         
.


Shade




Fluorescent 



As you can see through the transitions from all presets are in the blue tones, the shade preset being in most. AWB and fluorescent presets are slowly moving towards the yellow tones and you can observe this by the light source near my window on the walls and the larger leaf.


3. Shooting with the wrong WB preset - Tungsten with a lower shutter 1/8 F 5.0-Iso 400




This image is in the strong blue tones the feel is very cool in colour. The blue colours remind me of how miserable this winter has been. It does give a major change of feel compared if you changed it to any other preset in Lightroom or in the camera settings.




CW II-Assignment 1

Bianca Boswell-Davis 

CW II 

Assignment #1 


1.Shooting sports: Basketball Practice TV1/125-AV4.0-ISO800 =Focal length 75mm





When I had taken this shot I knew that I could've even cranked up my shutter even more even between 400-1000 To get an even more crisp motion shot.I wouldn't have that much noise and it could be even clearer. I shot this with my 75-300 mm lens because I wasn't allowed to get any closer without being hit with a ball, so this lens saved me a lot of time.

2.Panning effect: TV1/30-AV5.0-ISO400 = Focal length 44

 


I found my panning shot to be a lot more difficult than expected, but in the end, made it work shooting with my 18-135mm lens I like the sharpness it is giving me. I realized I needed to crank up my shutter speed while adjusting my F stop in order to really capture my brother in action. In my opinion i'd say thats the standard setting for panning effect.

3.Night scene:TV4"-AV32-ISO400 = Focal length 44


As you can see in my night scene I decided to rock with my 18-135mm lens. I had taken this half way on my rooftop and when I mean by half way because of that snow storm I could barely open my door. So I improvised due to my tight schedule and saw my vision seen that the snow gives great texture to my image and with Shutter speed of 4" it makes the lights look like stars.

4.Portrait:TV1/60-AV5.0-ISO400 - Focal length 44

So from this portrait I'd taken I went with the safe yet risky shutter of 1/60 of second. I used manually focus while holding my focus button to make sure my models eyes are in focus. I actually learned something new from using that button that could've saved all my previous work. I love the lighting which gives a split.Could I have adjusted my focal length  even more? absolutely.




5.Cityscape :TV1/160-AV20-ISO200 - Focal Length 44




My last and final shot for my cityscape was shot at a 44 focal length, with a faster f stop considering its not a nightscene.  its a diffferent persepctive from my roof top.

Wednesday, 8 February 2017

CW II : Lab 3 Lenses




Lab 3: Lenses


Part 1:  Lens Focal length/Still life/Scene with people


Depending on focal lengths for both images  Focal length 44.0mm has a more wider stance compared to The telephoto image shot at 75mm. You can see when using the telephoto lens that the Subject is more in focus where as the background is very blurred causing a lot of distortion. The more wider photo with 44.0mm the foreground of the subject with the desks are in focus and there is more in this picture.

 Tv 1/13-F13-ISO200 Handheld Lens( 18-135MM) Focal Length 44.0 mm


Tv 1/13-F13-ISO200 Tripod Lens (75-300mm) Focal length 75.0 mm


 Both models are being taken in the same spot  but with different focal lengths as explained for my still life images. When I used my 18-135mm lens with a focal length of 44.0 Emily and the locker behind her are in focus where as Erika is not. but you can also see that  the two chains hanging  are also in focus as well, compared to using my 50mm lens where  Erika is sharp and background  as whole is not.

 With Tripod TV1/8-F5.0-ISO400  Lens(18-135mm)Focal length 44.0mm


TV1/8-F5.0-ISO400 Lens (50mm) Focal Length 50mm

Part 2:  Focal Length and depth of Field


Tv/4-F5.0-ISO100
So for this set of images I zoomed in and out while using the same settings. I think they're pretty sharp, but could be better with more adjustments. If you see examples two and three you can see that the centre of the organ becoming more blurred.

 Focal length:150.0 mm



Focal length:120.0 mm



Focal length: 75.0 mm

Part 3: Test your lens

These sets of images were shot with different Apertures with a focal length at 50mm.

On my camera I assumed that my ISO Settings were light enough, but looking at them now it is a little bit underexposed. 

Considering I used a 50mm focal length all my images look all the same with very little distortion. 

F-Stop 2


F-Stop  2.8


F-Stop  4

F-Stop  5.6

F-Stop  8

F-Stop 11

F-Stop  16

F-Stop  22